Home-Style Tiered Skirts

My dear friend Christina mentioned that tiered-skirts are really in fashion. I hadn’t noticed this myself but then I began seeing tiered skirts in an assortment of different fabrics — knits, cotton prints, and lightweight denims — and in various lengths — knee-, calf-, and ankle-length. We chatted about how easy it would be to make them for our daughters. I have since made two sets of matching skirts for my two daughters, one in a cotton print with lace peeking from behind the bottom edge and the other in light-weight denim. When Christina made a skirt for her young daughter, she turned the skirt into skorts by adding a pair of shorts right into the waistband.

My daughters A. & B. in their tiered skirts.
I know you’ll enjoy making some of these skirts for yourself or your daughters. We know a little girl who just turned 6 and for her birthday, I made her a tiered skirt. I picked up a $4 t-shirt to match and with a skirt cost that was not more than a few dollars, this turned out to be an adorable, inexpensive gift.

A tiered skirt in a pretty floral.

A tiered skirt in a lightweight denim.

I would love to see pictures of your lovely tiered skirts. You can email photos to wardeh@christianhomekeeper.org. I also welcome your questions or comments.

HOME-STYLE TIERED SKIRT INSTRUCTIONS

These instructions are suitable for any lightweight fabric that lends itself to gathering and fullness. Choose prints, solids, knits, cotton/cotton blends, or lightweight denim.

1. Take waist measurement in inches. Use a tape measure to get an accurate measurement. Write this down as value A.

A = ________ inches

2. Take desired finished length measurement in inches (waist to knee, waist to calf, waist to ankle, etc.). Stand straight with legs closed and use a tape measure to get an accurate measurement. Write this down as value B.

B = ________ inches

3. Determine the number of tiers. I recommend 3 tiers for a knee-length skirt. For longer skirts, the minimum number of tiers is 3 and a recommended maximum is about 5 or 6. Decide the number of tiers in your skirt and write this down as value C.

C = ________ tiers

4. Calculate finished width of each tier in inches. Divide the desired finished length (B) by the number of tiers (C). Write this down as value D.

D = B divided by C

D = ________ inches

5. Calculate tier dimensions in inches. Plug in the values of A, B, C & D into the following calculations to get each tier’s length and width. The calculations include 1/2 inch seam allowances at each edge, 1 and 1/2 inches for the waistband, and 1 inch for the hem. This skirt will have a 1st tier that is 1 and a 1/2 times the waist (1.5 X A), a 2nd tier that is 1 and 3/4 times the waist (1.75 X A), and a 3rd tier that is 2 times the waist (2 X A).**

1st tier length (in) = (1.5 X A) + 1
1st tier width (in) = D + 2

2nd tier length (in) = (1.75 X A) + 1
2nd tier width (in) = D + 1

3rd tier length (in) = (2 X A) + 1
3rd tier width (in) = D + 1.5

Example 1
If I want to make a 3-tiered skirt (C) where the waist is 21 inches (A), the finished length is 15 inches (B), and each finished tier is 5 inches wide (D), I would end up with these dimensions:

1st tier length: (1.5 X 21) + 1 = 32.5 inches
1st tier width: 5 + 2 = 7 inches
1st tier dimensions: 32.5 by 7 inches

2nd tier length: (1.75 X 21) + 1 = 38 inches (rounded up)
2nd tier width: 5 + 1 = 6 inches
2nd tier dimensions: 38 by 6 inches

3rd tier length: (2 X 21) + 1 = 43 inches
3rd tier width: 5 + 1.5 = 6.5 inches
3rd tier dimensions: 43 x 6.5 inches

Example 2
Here is an example using less fullness for the 1st and 2nd tiers and a full 3rd tier. I’ll use the values of 1.33 (1 and 1/3 times the waist), 1.66 (1 and 2/3 times the waist) and 2 (2 times the waist).**

1st tier length: (1.33 X 21) + 1 = 29 inches (rounded up)
1st tier width: 5 + 2 = 7 inches
1st tier dimensions: 29 by 7 inches

2nd tier length: (1.66 X 21) + 1 = 36 inches (rounded up)
2nd tier width: 5 + 1 = 6 inches
2nd tier dimensions: 36 by 6 inches

3rd tier length: (2 X 21) + 1 = 43 inches
3rd tier width: 5 + 1.5 = 6.5 inches
3rd tier dimensions: 43 x 6.5 inches

6. Cut out the tiers. Add together all the widths from step 5. In the examples I gave above, I would need 19.5 inches of material (7 + 6 + 6.5). If you need strips that are longer than the fabric, you’ll have to use more material*. Begin cutting out strips in the dimensions you calculated in step 5. Cut strips parallel or perpendicular to the salvage edges of the fabric. Using chalk or fabric pencil, label the strips on the back sides. Write a 1 on the 1st tier, a 2 on the 2nd tier, and so on.

7. Get your sewing machine ready. Set it up with appropriate thread and make sure your bobbin is full. You don’t need to match your fabric and thread exactly — black thread works great for darker fabrics, and white thread does very well for lighter fabrics.

8. Sew side seams. On each tier strip, put right sides together and sew the short ends together, using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Press seams open or finish the raw edges in your preferred fashion (with a zigzag stitch or using your serger).

9. Gather 2nd tier and sew to 1st tier. Using a basting stitch, sew at 5/8 inch from edge along the long edge of the 2nd tier. Turn 1st tier right side out and place inside the 2nd tier, so that right sides are together. Pin the side seams together. Pull the ends of the loose basting thread, gathering and distributing the gathered fabric. When it is evenly gathered and the lengths of the 1st and 2nd tier match, pin together at frequent intervals, keeping right sides together. Return machine to normal stitch width. Sew 1st and 2nd tiers together along the gathered, pinned edge, using 1/2 inch seam allowance and keeping side seams lined up. Clip threads and remove basting.

10. Gather and attach additional tiers. Repeat step 9 to add 3rd tier to combined 1st and 2nd tiers. If you are adding additional tiers, continue adding them one at a time in this fashion.

11. Put in waistband. Turn skirt wrong side out. Fold top edge down 1/4 inch and press. Fold down again 3/4 inch. Press and pin in place. Sew close to inner folded edge, leaving opening to insert elastic. Stitch close to top edge, leaving no opening. Cut 1/2 inch wide elastic to waist dimension plus one inch. Thread elastic through waistband casing. Sew ends of elastic together and insert entirely into casing. Gently stretch the waistband as you stitch closed the casing opening.

12. Hem bottom edge. Try on skirt to check for desired length. Take off skirt. Turn bottom raw edge under 1/2 inch twice, and press or pin in place. If you want to add lace to your hem, pin it in place now. It looks pretty either on the front side or peeking out from behind. Seam close to inner folded edge.

13. Variation: Add a ruffle. Add a ruffle by cutting a 3 inch wide strip of fabric that is quite a bit longer than your last tier and sew it gathered up to the bottom tier’s raw edge. Hem the ruffle before gathering and attaching it to the last tier. If you desire, add lace to the ruffle, by pinning the lace in place before hemming.

14. Variation: Turn your tiered skirt into skorts. Construct a fitting pair of shorts out of the same or coordinating material, making sure the waistband openings of the skirt and shorts are the same dimension. At step 11, you’d put a waistband in both the skirt and shorts together. Thanks to my friend Christina for coming up with this idea!

15. Variation: Use coordinating fabrics. Alternate tiers of light-weight denim with coordinating striped or floral printed cottons.

*If you need a strip that is longer than your fabric, you will have to sew together two or more pieces to make a strip of the dimension you require. Cut one piece as long as the fabric and cut other strip(s) for the remaining needed length, adding 1 inch to each additional piece for the seam allowances. Seam the pieces together before proceeding with step 8.

**If you are making a skirt with more than 3 tiers, the tiers after the 3rd will keep increasing in width according to the same scale. For instance, if the 1st tier is one and a third times the waist, the 2nd tier is one and two-thirds times the waist and the 3rd tier is double the width of the waist, then 4th tier should be two and one-third times the waist, the 5th tier should be two and two-thirds times the waist, the 6th tier should be three times the waist, and so on.

Remember, I welcome your questions, comments and pictures. Contact me at wardeh@christianhomekeeper.org or leave a comment below.

© Copyright 2005 by Wardee Harmon. Used with permission from the author.